Caddo Lake

Caddo Lake is considered the only natural lake in Texas. All of our other lakes are created by human intervention. We dam a river or dig a ditch and wait for nature to fill the area with water. But Caddo Lake in far East Texas -- nearly to Shreveport Louisiana -- is a maze of natural bayous originally congested by beavers dams and fallen trees. It was a lake in its own right long before the Army Corps of Engineers began to build dams along Texas rivers and ultimately across Caddo Lake, too. The parts we paddle, however, really don't look like a lake. Majestic Bald Cypress trees swamp the waterways. Passages are lined with water lilies and water hyacinths; and the area is filled with big and small islands of pine. The open water and noisy boats of fishers are far to the east. In our kayaks and canoes eerie scene seems like a private adventure land.

Our journey starts on a Saturday morning in November. We put in on the north west shore, an area called Carter Lake. The low water level stands as witness to the hot dry summer and the lake's surface is carpeted in yellow-green duck weed. The Bald Cypress are now golden, red and bronze, but the air temperature crests at 84 degrees this day. Dappled clouds give us dramatic changes of light all day long.

Before lunch we negotiate the southern slough along Goat Island. There are beaver lodges but no signs of recent activity. We spot Herons, Egrets and a small yellow breasted bird that flits between the trees.Only with mutual cooperation are we able to land our boats on the very muddy shores of the island, but we long to stretch our legs and explore the dry forest.Then out comes the camp stove and we feast on homemade seven-vegetable chili, mini corn muffins with butter, fresh fruit and fresh baked vanilla pecan cookies.

After lunch we head toward Big Hole and find several duck blinds camouflaged by moss. The hunters will not be back until dawn so we paddle among the decoys and laugh. Heading back toward home we spot a water moccasin coiled on the sunny cypress knees begging to be photographed, but we keep our distance. By 3 p.m. we finish our nearly seven mile paddle and head back to our quaint little cabins for showers, happy hour and a delicious catfish dinner at a local restaurant.

In the dark, just before dawn on Sunday we launch in Saw Mill Pond among the shadowy silhouettes of the towering cypress. As the sun rises we are treated to mists on the water, fishing Herons and an incredible array of brightening color. It is quiet. We try not to splash with our paddles. But after the sun is up our stomachs are rumbling and we choose to head back to shore for a hot breakfast.

Our last paddle of the weekend is out of Uncertain, TX. Really. Here we launch at a boat ramp, but we still have most of the waterways to ourselves. Today we spot a hiding beaver. Among the lilies we sit bird watching for a long time and again see our unidentified yellow breasted little friend, vultures lurking on the islands amid the pines, and a fishing bird that we think is an immature Yellow Crowned Night Heron or perhaps an American Bittern. We are neophyte bird watchers.

Lunch is on a small island that seems to be a bedroom for deer, but the fishers nearby say it is the sunning spot for a thirteen foot alligator. We see no evidence of the reptile, but we paddle a little faster after lunch.

On the road home by 2 p.m. we vow to schedule this trip for the same weekend again next year. The weather has been terrific, food tantalizing and the friends, great fun.

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Lighthouse Lakes Trail

The Lighthouse Lakes Trail promises to be a birders paradise. It did not disappoint us. We left Mustang Island State Park right after breakfast and without delay, the busy ferry out of Port Aransas delivered our vehicles and trailer of kayaks to a narrow and sandy peninsula. On this Saturday morning of Memorial Day weekend it is a destination for fishers seeking the thrill of catch after catch and our launch point for a full choice of water trails. The pathways are marked with tall numbered posts. When we check our maps we see how to navigate from point to point through marshy low islands for the 10-mile paddle we have chosen through the bay. We apply another layer of sunscreen, stow our lunch in the hatches and head up the channel to our first marker. Almost immediately, out in front of our small brigade of boats, an American White Pelican tucks its body into a classic dive and splashes into the water

for its breakfast. Yes! This is some of what we came to see.

Paddling next over waving sea grasses we are thrilled by leaping sea trout -- they seem to be everywhere. Looking through the clear water we watch hermit crabs in their borrowed shell homes and see colonies of oysters settle in the sandy bottom. Then we begin to notice the birds. Sharing the shallow edges of our water path are Snowy and Reddish Egrets, Roseate Spoonbills and White Ibis. Over head of course are gulls by the hundreds. (Later when we peruse the pages of the guidebook and observe our campground companions we decide most are black headed Laughing Gulls.) Throughout the day we paddle past flocks of Brown Pelicans, Cormorants on lone pilings, sandpipers on their stilts and our favorite Great Blue Herons.

Other wildlife inhabits the islands. When we beach our kayaks for a stretch and snack break a long and fat Common King Snake slithers through the scrub. Sunning lizards and furry rodents scurry from its path.

After lunch our trail is through deeper and more open water. This means wind in our face- for an hour and a half - but our efforts are rewarded when the lighthouse finally comes into view. It is so tall and surrounded by several other weathered building lifted high on pillars. We are surprised we didn't see it sooner.

The remaining adventures of the weekend are just as stunning. In the afternoons a few of us plowed out through the Gulf surf zone to ride in the breakers. The wild and irregular 3 - 4 foot swells on Sunday were the warning signs of approaching thunderstorms and tornado watches. The lightening gave us quite a show that night but Monday dawned clear and calm. We wished we could stay another day.

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Lake Buchanan Trip

It is a perk in the job description of a kayaking and canoeing guide. In pursuit of premium paddling sites we paddle hundreds of miles or rivers, bays and lakes. We scout for great campsites, potential hazards and safe routes. We examine put-ins, test mileage and plan shuttles. On our latest adventure to the Texas Hill Country we discovered more than expected. We found jaw dropping scenery and wildlife by the canyon full.

Late on a Friday afternoon outside the small town of Burnet our small group of seasoned sea kayakers assembled on the north shore of Lake Buchanan. Our destination? Colorado Bend State Park, sixteen miles upstream through the wide Colorado River canyon.

We stowed overnight gear into bulkheads; checked the handiness of our safety gear; fixed the GPS to a foredeck; and readied the camera. We had heard there would be waterfalls along the way.

We encountered three spectacular cascades. In less than two hours, about four miles from the start, set back in a cove off the main river channel we found the first. From high canyon walls 40 feet overhead, Fall Creek fans out over a bed of limestone and showers into a playful arena. The multiple flows are perfect to paddle around, through and behind. Then, further up stream and flanked by 120 foot cliffs is Deer Creek Falls. This web of rivulets spills furtively from a high unseen pool, coursing over rock and shrubs into a cool ferny grotto. Finally, just before sunset we encountered the grandeur of Post Oak Falls. Its towering height dwarfed our tired and humbled paddling party but we considered it the most impressive of all.

Though the day's paddle was long and an unusual north wind challenged us most of the way our rewards also included abundant
wildlife. We spotted deer, raccoon, armadillo, goats and cattle. Gar and carp churned in the shallow water along the banks.

Great Blue Herron watched us from their fishing pools, ducks scuttled across our wake and the Red Winged Black Bird rested among reeds.

Two more treats greeted us Saturday morning. Just before dawn, the wind we battled on Friday brought a grand thunderstorm with spectacular lightening displays. Rain pattered on the tents but, in perfect form, drifted away right after breakfast. And finally as we paddled home back down the river, that blasting wind was behind us. It created spectacular waves. Just set the stern rudder and surf! What a ride.

What a trip. We have recorded the data and arranged the details. Anxious to go back, we can't wait for others to join the fun.

Check our schedule page to see upcoming tours to Lake Buchanan or contact us to arrange the tour at your convenience.

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